Saturday, September 29, 2012

August 13, 2008

Denizens of Thunder Butte - Part II

Richard Foster was a well known person about Thunder Butte. My parents leased his ranch on Thunder Butte Creek for many years. Dickey, as the locals referred to him, lived with his parents on upper Thunder Butte Creek. I believe their ranch was in Perkins County.

When Dickey was young, he attended the South Dakota School of Mines, a respected college in the Black Hills. I believe he obtained an engineering degree there. Dickey was very fond of the Sioux Indians, almost to the point of obsession. It is said that he lived with them on the Moreau River for a time. He spoke Sioux fluently and was frequently mimicked by local people, especially the grunting sounds he made while talking. This was a local Lakota trait, and it was thought the language was made up largely of grunts. Actually, I believe this grunting was a colloquial thing, much as the expression one hears everywhere today, "O.K." One gets the impression when talking to someone that the person needs your permission for everything said----"O.K.?" Well, I believe the grunts which interspersed the Lakota language were much the same kind of expression.

Dick Foster was interested in anything Lakota. Since he owned the ranch we lived on, he frequently stopped by, mainly because he liked to hunt arrowheads and other relics on the wind swept flats on this land. It was common for me to see him out hunting arrowheads. So, I would join him and he would explain what I found and show me faults and interesting points in the artifacts we found.

Another denizen, Tommy Escott, who herded sheep in the area, discovered my interest in Indian artifacts. So, he proceeded to teach me how to make the arrowheads. Well, I am not proud of the fact, but it is part of 'denizen' history, so I'll tell you anyway. When I was about ten years old, having learned the art of arrowhead manufacture from Tommy Escott, I sewed about a hundred of my handiwork arrowheads onto a bright cloth for display purposes. The next time I saw Dick Foster out hunting arrowheads, I pulled out this roll of artifacts. On seeing it, he proceeded to buy it from me for quite a lot of money. I never told anyone, so it remained a secret.

There are many Fosters in the area today – I see their names in the local papers, but I don't think any of them are related to Dick. I asked him at one time and he told me the Fosters around Meadow were no relations of his.

Dick Foster was "old" from the time I first knew of him, and he became a stodgy, hard drinking old rancher in the years when I grew up around there. This man was good natured, almost to a fault. People used to take advantage of his good nature, and I speak from experience. One time when I was in high school, I saw Dick driving down the street in Lemmon in a brand new Ford pick-up truck. It was the prettiest thing I ever saw. Later that night, I saw the truck parked in front of a local card room, the back room of a beer parlor. So, I went in and asked Dick to lend me his truck; I just wanted to try it out. I guess he had a good poker hand because he pulled out the keys and handed them to me.

Fast forward to Hettinger, North Dakota, where I picked up a girl friend and drove her around town. We parked on the side of a hill, sat there and talked, and being on the side of a hill, the truck slowly, very slowly, laid over on its side. Holy Cow! Jumping out of the truck, I tentatively lifted on it and, much to my surprise, it lifted back on to all four wheels. That pretty much ended my visit with 'whats-her-name'. I rushed back to Lemmon, parked the truck, and gave the keys back to Dick. I told him what had happened, and he exploded. I thought he was having a heart attack, but he wasn't – that came quite a few years later.

The last time I saw R. L. Foster, 'Dickey', was about in the 1940's. I was visiting my brother Neal in Faith, and we saw Dick sitting in his Ford pick-up with a couple of people who probably herded sheep for him. Dick said, "Humph, uh! Howdy,” and the other two said pretty much the same, and that was pretty much all that Dick ever said.

--John Crowley

August 09, 2008

Denizens of Thunder Butte

The first ranch house west of Thunder Butte [when I was a youngster] was that of the Walenta’s.

When my parents came to South Dakota they linked with the Walentas in some place like Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Or, so I was led to believe. They were quite thick with the Walentas in the early years, probably due to the good nature of Mrs. Walenta, Margaret. Her maiden name was Nolan, a big good natured Irish woman who later became my godmother.

Wes Walenta was a somewhat dour individual. I never saw him smile. I don’t recall that he ever seemed to have a happy thought.

It seems that my father and Walenta staked claims at the same time. Walenta picked the highest point on the ridge west of the Butte and my father picked the claim on the Walenta’s South. My father’s claim, where I was born, was at the bottom of a little valley. I suppose my Dad was thinking that water would be plentiful in the lower place.

The funny part of my father’s decision was the Walenta’s well. The Walentas built a large frame house, but the most outstanding thing was the well. I remember riding up on my little pony from time to time and letting him drink from the stock tank beside the well. The tank was always overflowing with good ice cold water supplied by a pump and windmill that was always turning, pumping water. My father’s place never had a decent well. We always had to haul water from about a quarter mile away from the house. No one would ever expect to find water at the top of a high ridge, but Walenta did!

I always felt welcome at the Walenta’s because of Mrs. Walenta, Margaret. She always had milk and cookies for me and stories about her family to tell my Mother.

The Walenta family consisted of Rex, the oldest, John, next, and Maxine. Rex Walenta was built like his mother, big and round. He was sent back East where he was educated to be an attorney. Rex may have become a good lawyer, but he didn’t make as good a rancher. He leased the '73' ranch on Thunder Butte Creek after his education was complete. He stocked the ranch with thousands of young turkeys. Most of the turkeys were eaten by coyotes and bobcats, some were stolen by eagles, and the rest drowned in the first rain. Young turkeys will stick their beaks in the air and drown. John became kind of sullen. He later disappeared from the area and we heard nothing more of him.

Maxine was a beautiful girl, an incredible horsewoman and kindly like her mother. She later married George Boeding, a Glad Valley farm boy. George just passed away this last year and Maxine passed on long before.

In spite of becoming a lawyer, Rex produced a nice family. His wife was my teacher in about the seventh grade. She was intelligent, probably the best teacher I ever had. She had three of her children in the little one room school. I believe their names were Dennis, the oldest, Thomas, the middle boy, and Mary Anne, the baby. The kids were all intelligent, good looking and pleasant in spite of having a lawyer for their father.

Although I was born in the sod house on the neighboring ranch to the south of the Walenta’s, I don’t remember much about it. My family, much later, lived on the Joe Shockley claim which bordered my father's claim on the south.

Next to the Shockley claim was a dugout (a cave) in a bank in which lived an old hermit called Raggy Simmons. No one ever knew much about Raggy, except to stay away from him. People said that you could smell Raggy coming when he was still across the creek. I recall one day he came up in our yard and my Mother got the shotgun and ran him off. Apparently, Raggy must have passed away at some point in his cave; he just disappeared.

(To be continued)

-John Crowley

July 14, 2008

Saint Bartholomew Church in Glad Valley

My father recalls that his family (before he was born) used to attend church in Brayton, but that the church relocated to Glad Valley after a big wind storm. At least, this is what his family told him. After that, until most family members moved to California early in WWII, the family attended church at Glad Valley. I don’t know whether something was lost in the telling of the story about the church, but a volume that I located, “Builders of God’s Kingdom: The History of the Catholic Church in South Dakota” by Sister M. Claudia Duratschek tells a slightly different story about wind storms and the founding of the Catholic church in Glad Valley.

Catholics in the Glad Valley area had been served out of Isabel from 1914 to 1922. In 1918, Saint Bartholomew Church was formally established at Glad Valley and a small frame church was built. According to Sister Duratschek, “It could not withstand the 1922 tornado blasts and was wrecked…. A church building was moved in from Brayton, remodeled and improved to serve as St. Bartholomew Church.” However, following “two years of uncertain services, 1924-26, the parish became a mission of Isabel.”

Memories can be a tricky thing, and it certainly is possible that the story as Sister Duratschek tells it is correct. Or, perhaps my Dad’s version hones closer to reality. It is difficult to tell for certain. The difficulty of finding out about the church is also evident in my search to see what became of the church building, which is no longer at Glad Valley. Last year, Rex Witte, one of the few remaining residents of Glad Valley, could only tell me that the building had been hauled away years ago.

An anonymous commenter to this blog said in May 2008, “I have always been told that the Glad Valley Catholic church is now located in Isabel and is used as the Hope Reformed Church. It is located one block east of the Hardware store.” I emailed Father Lane, who heads the parish of Saint Luke at Thunder Butte [community of, not the butte] to see what he might know. Father Lane’s secretary checked with her daughter-in-law who lives in Glad Valley, prompting this reply from Father Lane, “[she] says the glad valley church became the Isabel Church of God. They only have occasional services because of small numbers of people.”

Hope Reformed Church or Church of God? Perhaps knowing with certainty awaits my next trip to Isabel, which could be months away. Notwithstanding, I would like to see for myself the church that my Dad, his siblings, and mother and father all attended.

--Mike Crowley

Editor’s note – To be fair, Father Lane’s secretary also emailed me separately, but one doesn’t always know who might or might not be bothered about being quoted online. Hopefully, Father Lane doesn’t mind!

July 13, 2008

Ute Uprising


One of the last military engagements on the Plains happened in 1907 just ten or twelve miles from Thunder Butte near the junction of the Moreau River and Thunder Butte Creek and the present day Cheyenne River Sioux Reservation community of Thunder Butte. Today, the incident is probably long forgotten by most people, including those with long ties to the area. Yet, when it happened, it prompted coverage in the New York Times and other newspapers across the country.

The episode began when about 400 Utes began a trek across Utah, Wyoming, and Montana in 1906. They were rounded up by the U.S. Cavalry and taken to Fort Meade in the Black Hills, where they were interned until plans for their resettlement in South Dakota were made. Ultimately, the Federal government attempted to resettle the Utes on the Cheyenne River Sioux Reservation at the Thunder Butte substation. However, from the beginning, the conditions of resettlement proved irksome for the Utes and there were threats of an armed rebellion.

One of the complaints of the Utes was that the government’s promise of rations was not met. Instead, the government was requiring that work be exchanged for “payment” of rations. Commissioner Leupp of the Bureau of Indian Affairs commented to the New York Times, “This office believes in applying the same rule to the Indians that is applied to poor and ignorant men of any race. We believe in finding work for them, and then in permitting them to go hungry if they will not accept the opportunity to make a living. These Utes contemptuously declined to work….” Ute leaders may have been contemptuous of the Bureau of Indian Affairs, but they were adamant in their belief that the government had reneged on a promise of regular provisions as a condition of settlement on the reservation.

Another issue for the Utes was that their children were taken away and placed in boarding schools instead of being allowed to stay at home or attend school nearby. Federal policies of the time attempted to strip away Native American culture by, in effect, removing children from families, prohibiting them from speaking in their native tongues, and initiating them into the values of the white American culture.

When negotiations between the Utes and the Federal Indian Agent, Thomas Downs, failed, the Utes took up positions at the entrance to the Thunder Butte substation and threatened the use of force. At this point, about 1,000 troops were called in from Nebraska and the Utes were forced to settle. About 100 Ute men, women, and children decamped for Rapid City and a promise of a life and jobs off of the reservation. The remainder stayed on for the winter with inadequate rations and shelter and then began the long trek back to Utah under Federal supervision in June 1908.

--Mike Crowley

June 05, 2008

Joe Shockley Goes to War

My great-uncle, Joe Shockley, served in the trenches in Europe in World War I. I knew him briefly as a child in California, but he was not a man in his later years to say very much. When my grandfather homesteaded just northwest of Thunder Butte, Joe – who was my grandmother’s brother – set himself up on a place not far away in Glad Valley. So, it was with great interest that I found the following news story on the web that describes the circumstances under which Joe went off to fight in the Great War, as it was then known.

The following is excerpted from “Time Marches On,” by Thelma Frame, writing in "South Dakota's Ziebach County, History of the Prairie", published in 1982 by the Ziebach County Historical Society, Dupree, SD and available here:


“The banner headline of the September 27, 1917 [Dupree] Leader reads "Citizens of County Bid Boys Farewell." Saturday last about 9:30 a.m. 16 young men left for the Cantonment at Fort Riley, Kansas, the second contingent from Ziebach County to the training camp. A parade in the morning previous to the arrival of the train was one of the largest seen here for some time past. The parade started at the High School at about 8 o'clock headed by the Dupree band. Following were members of the Red Cross, then the teachers and pupils of the Dupree School, Veterans of the Civil and Spanish Wars and the new soldier boys, then the citizens generally, bringing up the rear. The march on the street continued north until opposite the Fox Ridge Hotel, thence to the depot where the new soldier boys formed a line facing the crowd. After several patriotic airs by the band, a short talk by attorney Henderson, and a song by the school children, the crowd formed to bid the boys a farewell and godspeed, then awaited the arrival of the train. While waiting for the train, Mayor Shelton, in his usual good way, suggested that a purse be taken for the boys and passed the hat. A neat sum was collected, which was turned over to Mr. George Wakefield Till who was selected by the local board to take charge of the men.

“About ten minutes before the departure of the train, the boys were once again called in line and marched into the coaches. As they took their places a cheer went up amidst the smiles and tears of all.

“The men who were honored that day were: Gustave Yeshko, George Diermier, William Nelson and George Jennerson from Dupree; Frank Rosenstock, Jack Neigel, John Held and George Till from Eagle Butte; August Hanneman and George Sargent from Redelm; Willie Krone and Charles Kercher from Isabel; Oscar Nelson, Harry Olson and Joseph Shockley from Glad Valley and Leo Sinkey from Lantry.


--Mike Crowley

June 01, 2008

Wild Cars of Thunder Butte - Part IV

My brother-in-law, Floyd (Ted) Dickinson, bought a new 1935 Ford V-8, three window coupe in the spring of 1936. Ted’s Father, Elting Dickinson, was owner of Consumer’s Grocery in Lemmon and he dispatched Ted to Yakima, Washington, to buy a train carload of apples. Ted asked me to go with him for company and we set out in Ted’s new `35 Ford.

The Ford was a bomb. Fast and peppy, it covered the miles with great speed and comfort, and Ted attempted to drive the entire distance without stopping to sleep. The only problem with driving non-stop in a brand new car at that time was – a new car had to be driven at intermittent intervals until the engine was broken in. On this trip, non stop as it was, the car soon began to smoke. At 70 to 80 miles per hour, day and night, it soon began to use oil and started smoking.

By the time we had arrived back in Lemmon, we had to add two or three quarts of oil every time we stopped for gas. Ted’s answer to the oil problem was to carry a five gallon can of oil behind the front seat for the purpose of adding oil at gas stops.

Long after we had arrived home, the habit of the oil can continued. So that winter, when I had a date with Vivian Kusler, Ted let me borrow the 35 Ford. During the evening on the town, we got the Ford stuck in a snow bank. The process of jerking the car out of the snow bank, back and forth, caused – unknown to me -- the five gallons of oil to over turn in the back seat. It was discovered the next day when Ted took his car out of the garage.
Another of my great adventures with cars consisted of working most of the next day in an attempt to restore the inside of the Ford. Removing five gallons of oil from the upholstery and flooring of a car is big time stuff for a 14 year old boy.

Another adventure with cars, which did nothing for my reputation, happened shortly after my parents had purchased a new 1929 Model "A" Ford. This car was the last word in middle class cars, speed, comfort and endurance. The Ford had it all. One day, I "borrowed" the Model A and set out to practice driving. Soon the novelty of driving up and down the country trails wore off, and I looked for more adventure. I discovered that hard pan flats would fill with water during the winter and then freeze over – making great skating ponds all over the prairie. One could race across these ponds at full speed, and then turn the steering wheel all the way over, braking at the same time, and the car would sail along sideways. Or, in some instances, the car would start to spin around and around.
I was having great fun spinning the Model A when the rear wheel hit a clump of frozen dirt sticking up out of the ice. The result was the rear axle broke off – I was stranded!
Fortunately, my brothers, Joe and Neal, found another axle and repaired the car, but my name was mud for a long time.

One exciting automobile of those times was the 1934-35 Chrysler Air Stream. One day, someone came to Lemmon to demonstrate the Chrysler. I recall watching with great excitement as a man was blindfolded, then drove the Chrysler down Main Street at full speed, blindfolded. I guess this was done to demonstrate how well the car held the road. Maybe it was just to draw attention to the remarkable car.

Not long after the Chrysler demonstration, in 1939, in fact, Studebaker came out with the Champion Starlight Coupe. As I recall, this was the first instance of using all glass around the car in a Stream lined automobile. I was crazy about the Studebaker and "rented" it many times from Bob Rainey. Many years later, my sister, Cecelia owned one of the little Starlight coupes when she was living in Alameda, California. When she tired of it and bought a Plymouth Fury, I bought the Studebaker from her. Somehow, though it just was not the same – the thrill was gone.

--John Crowley

May 03, 2008

Wild Cars of Thunder Butte - Part III

One article I’ve read lists the Model T Ford as one of the fifty worst cars ever built. I guess the following disputes that assumption entirely.



I believe this picture is of a 1925 Model T Ford. You see, I was very familiar with this car. Sometime in the summer of 1939, I wandered into the Lemmon Auto Company, a garage at the north end of Main Street in Lemmon, South Dakota. I was chatting with the Manager, a Mr. Olien, when he said, "How would you like to buy a great car? We just got this Ford in and it has hardly been driven." He then proceeded to show me a Ford, exactly like the one in the above photo.

I could not believe my eyes. This car looked like it had just rolled out of the factory. Mr. Olien got in, turned on the key and the old Ford purred like a kitten—that’s right, it started running just as soon as he turned the ignition switch.

I told Mr. Olien that if I had any money I would buy this car in an instant. He said, "How much money do you have?" I said, "About two dollars." And, he said, "You just bought yourself a new car. You can pay me the remaining eight dollars at one dollar per week."

I got in and drove away in perhaps the best car I have ever owned. It took eight more weeks to pay for it, but I loved that car. What was so nice about this car? To begin with, it even had the new car smell after all those years. It had always been garaged. It had been serviced regularly since it was new by this same garage. This automobile was so finely tuned that it started when you turned on the ignition switch. The engine hardly made a sound.

One of the outstanding features of this model was the transmission. In addition to the standard three foot pedals, it also had a two speed Ruckstell rear end, which means that you could gear down two speeds and it would go anywhere, just like a tractor.

I often had to go out of town to play for dances, almost every weekend, in fact. On those occasions I always rented a modern car from Bob Rainey of Rainey’s garage. Mr. Rainey seemed to have a soft spot for young people. He had two adopted sons, twins, Bob and Dick, just a year or two older than I. Whenever I came back from a dance job, for some mysterious reason they were never able to find the bill for the car rental. Actually they never did find a bill and I must have rented dozens of times.

I distinctly remember driving my Model T coupe home when I graduated from high school, and the last time I left the ranch by Thunder Butte, that beautiful old Ford was sitting there by the house. The tires must be real flat by now!

--John Crowley

May 01, 2008

Wild Cars of Thunder Butte - Part II

Most modern cars have front wheel drive; this is a given. Long ago, Thunder Butte dwellers learned that cars pulled better than they pushed. When you came to a very steep hill in an old Model "T" Ford, you automatically turned the car around and started to back up the hill. Usually when going in reverse you could manage to climb the steepest hill without a problem.

Long before I acquired the old "T" model from Roger Portney, someone had given me a 1928 Chevrolet. I have mentioned having to replace the connecting rod bavette routinely and a few other idiosyncrasies of the Chevrolet. (See my last post.) One of the more discouraging traits of the `28 Chev was its inability to hold water. The radiator was good for about ten miles before it would start to steam. In a couple of more miles the engine would begin to missfire, and water would have to be added if one was to continue driving.

One of the worst instances of running out of water was sometime in 1934. I would have been 13 or 14 years old at the time. I had just picked up three or four of the Briscoe boys, and probably a couple of other neighbor boys, and we were off to a dance in Usta. About half way to the dance, somewhere in the vicinity of Wedgetent Butte, the Chevy started to steam. In a couple of miles further, she refused to go any further. We turned off the car, sat there in the gathering dusk of evening, and discussed how we were going to get to the dance, or better yet, how we would get home without water, as the nearest water was miles away in either direction. After some long discussion, one of the boys stood up on the front bumper of the car and urinated in the radiator. Without a word, each of the boys lined up and did the same. Again, without a word, we all piled in and drove on to Usta to the dance. After the dance we refilled the 'stink'n' car and drove home without further incident.

Having traded the Chevrolet for the topless Model "T" Ford, and after months of 'fooling' with it, it finally came to life and I was driving back to town when I discovered another problem. In the old Model "T's", the radius rods (steering) were connected together loosely, and if you turned the steering wheel very far in either direction, the rods between the front wheels would flop over and the car would go in the opposite direction from which you steered. Turn left, and the car would suddenly go right. Like I said, this was all new to me, so on the way back to town, and as I was passing the Petrified Wood Park on my right, I jerked the wheel left to avoid hitting a rock in the road, the Ford instantly went right. The throttle was a lever on the steering column. In my haste, as I was racing through monuments of petrified wood at a breakneck pace, I pulled the nearest lever which happened to be the spark advance and that just made the car run faster. Steering like a 14 year old madman, I raced through all of the petrified wood park. Steering left to miss a pylon, the car would race to the right around the pylon and that was the way I navigated the entire acreage of the Petrified Wood Park in Lemmon that day. After much experimentation, I discovered that I could tie strips of inner tube rubber to the radius rods, and that would prevent them from flopping over and the car would steer in straight line.


Lemmon's Pretrified Wood Park in March 2007

One other problem was the throttle lever on the steering column. I never could get used to pulling and pushing that lever. The result was a stick tied over where the hood was meant to be, with a wire connected to the carburetor, and the other end of the stick protruding into the driver's compartment. Although it looked very clumsy, this stick arrangement worked exceptionally well, and I would go racing around town and all over Perkins County and North Lemmon, North Dakota, with my hoodless, topless, sometimes radiator-less Model "T" Ford.

If anyone ever reads this stuff, you may wonder how I survived the legal world. The answer was this—the State of South Dakota did not issue driver's licenses in those days. The local chief of police, Pat Jones, used to chase me a lot. But, as soon as I raced out of town, he would give up the chase. As he said to someone later on, "I would just chase him until he left town, and then realizing he was out of harms way, I would give up the chase."

--John Crowley

April 16, 2008

Wild Cars of Thunder Butte



An Old 1915 Model T


Before I ever had a car, there were numerous cars passing before my child's eyes. Perhaps the first was a Model T Ford that my mother drove to Glad Valley for the occasional trip to take the eggs and buy groceries. On this particular trip, I was about two years of age and was made to sit in the back seat. The only part I remember of this particular trip was that on the way home from Glad Valley, with a month's supply of groceries, my mother drove over a bridge that spanned a deep creek. As she drove up a steep hill on the far side of the bridge, the Model T stalled. My mother got out to crank the Ford and when she started to crank, the car started backward down the hill toward the deep water. She ran and grabbed me out of the back seat as the car swept past her and down the hill. Young as I was, I distinctly remember the Ford veering off the road at the side of the bridge, where it plunged over the bank and into the deep water. In just a couple of minutes it had sunk out of sight and all that was left were bubbles. My mother hoisted me to her back and set out for home, about ten miles away, as we lived on Thunder Butte Creek at the time.

Many Model T Fords came and went. The Model T cost about $600 brand new. It was open on the sides and had a roof that folded down something like the convertible. In winter, my folks would put on side curtains that snapped into place to keep out the bitter cold winds. One of the greatest problems with the old cars was preventing the radiators from freezing solid in the below zero cold. The only anti-freeze available in those times was alcohol. The alcohol worked fine until the car had run for a while. Then, after heating up, the alcohol would evaporate and the car would start to freeze. You knew it was freezing up when plumes of steam would begin to spout from the radiator cap. You see, when the ice formed in the radiator, it displaced the water and actually the car was dry.

My brothers, Joe and Neal were always working on some old car. The old cars were not very techno and most problems could be fixed with pliers and wire. If you needed gaskets, the best material was rubber from old over-shoes and leather from old boots and shoes.

One of my first cars was a 1928 Chevrolet sedan that someone gave to me, or probably I found it abandoned some place and just gave it a home. It was a nice car, ran quiet and didn't leak much. It did have a crankshaft that was out of round, and when the rods started to knock bad, I would have to take the pan off and cut leather bavetting for the rod. This bavette was cut out of an old shoe and inserted on either side of the crankshaft. Then, the connecting rod was bolted down on the leather. It worked fine for a while. When the rods began knocking again, it was time to cut new leather. I finally got tired of the constant rebuilding of the Chevrolet and traded it to Roger Portney who had an old Model T Ford pickup that was sitting out in a pasture outside of Lemmon. He had been unable to start the Ford. It sat in that pasture for all summer and part of the next winter, when we traded.

I used to go out to visit the Model T after school. I would crank the thing until it kicked so bad it had me scared. A couple of times the crank actually hit me in the arm when the car backfired and the crank would fly around, backward. You had to jerk your arm out of the way fast to prevent being hit. After about a month of this dangerous pursuit, I discovered a little metal cup on the front of the engine, which turned out to be the timer. The timer had a rotor inside that would turn and hit each of the four points in turn. When I took the timer cap off, the rotor fell on the ground. The pin, which was supposed to hold it to the cam, was missing and that was why the thing misfired. I went over to the nearest fence, pulled a nail out of the fence post, inserted the nail in the base of the rotor, bent the end over, put the cap back on, and cranked her up. The Ford roared to life and provided many hours of recreation for myself and friends for months to come.

The weirdest thing happened once while driving the Ford. One day I was driving down Main Street in Lemmon with the standard load of kids hanging all over it when some kids yelled, "Hey, there goes a tire down the street! Let's get it, and maybe we can use it on this one. At that moment, the rear of the Ford dropped to the street, dragging one side. It was our tire which had come off, wheel and all, and was rolling past us down the street.

This same old Ford sat out in the snow storms all winter. When I wanted to use it, I would find the most likely pile of snow, dig down until I could crank it and the resulting shaking and banging would knock off most of the remaining snow. I soon learned that in the dead of winter, the radiator was just a nuisance. With the radiator removed, the car would run fine until the engine block became red hot. Then I would have to stop, let it cool down, and then drive on. This was possible because of the great tolerance between parts in the Old T Models. Today's cars would stop dead before they even remotely approached those temperature changes.

--John Crowley

April 05, 2008

Old Stone Church


Old Stone Church at Firesteel

The impermanence of most old buildings on the prairie is palpable. As you drive across prairie landscapes, it’s not unusual to happen occasionally on the ruins of buildings from yesteryear. Usually what remains is merely a tilting, rotting shell, as it prepares itself for eventual internment in the soil. Often, what scraps remain have been carried off for use elsewhere. It is as if the prairie gradually swallows up anything not lived in, used, or maintained. Still, when my sister and I went looking for the old catholic church my Dad and his parents and siblings had attended at Glad Valley when we visited last March, we expected something to have remained. There was nothing.

We know that the church was still standing in the mid-1950’s. Rex Witte, one of the few inhabitants of Glad Valley remaining today, told us that the old church had been sold and hauled off years ago for some other use, and that the graves were moved to Isabel. That seemed sad. As the population thins out across the Dakotas, and more people move off the land, one of the last tangible reminders that there were once people here often is the churches. People will struggle to maintain them and keep them up, even after the congregants have all moved away, because they often are a last tangible link to the families and communities that preceded us, as well as the faith that kept them here.

Still, when folks we met in Eagle Butte mentioned the Old Stone Church outside of Timber Lake, and offered to take us there, it was an opportunity that we did not pass up. A small Episcopal chapel built of stone in 1923, the Old Stone Church – actually the Holy Spirit Chapel of the Standing Rock Mission – continues in use today by a handful of families. Built with great attention to detail of local sandstone, the church is a beautiful little building, and one that would be difficult to imagine ever being swallowed up by the prairie.

According to the Timberlake Historical Society, which maintains an information page about the chapel here, the Old Stone Church is located not far from Timber Lake "on the Buck & Lory Ward Ranch, which is north of the new BIA road linking Highways 63 and 65. The best way to reach the church is to turn north off the BIA road one mile west of the Broken Heart Ranch corner. There is a small sign. You then follow the trail as it proceeds north, then west and then north. Eventually you will find yourself overlooking Firesteel Creek, the valley and the church.” We took this route without a guide, got lost, and did a considerable amount of backtracking before we came on the scenic little valley the church is located in. It is a thing to behold.

It was difficult not to be inspired by the beauty of this little chapel—for example, the loving attention to detail in the stonework such as the cross carved out of the face of the sandstone above the entryway and the floor-to-ceiling archway that frames the sanctuary of the altar.


Old Stone Church Nestled in a Prairie Valley


Unique Architecture Reminiscent of a Medieval European Chapel


Note the Carved Stone Cross Above the Entry Way


A Bluff Rises to the North and Rear of the Chapel


Interior of the Chapel (Note the Stone Arch)


View Upward of the Stone Arch Providing Roof Support


Stone Altar Nestled in the Sanctuary


Potbelly Stove--Probably the Original 1923 Heating System

--Mike Crowley

March 15, 2008

Old Three Toes


Old Three Toes, Stuffed and Mounted

I've often wondered about the photo of “Old Three Toes,” above, which belonged to my Uncle Joe. The photo is apparently of a museum exhibit, and Old Three Toes was actually mounted and on display. What was the significance of this wolf? I knew from the family that Three Toes used to wander South Dakota not far from Thunder Butte. During the early 1920's, Old Three Toes of Harding County was thought to be the last wolf left in the Tri-State area around Thunder Butte, and was credited with any predator related attacks on local livestock.

The gray wolf used to roam the plains, living off of the buffalo, antelope, and other animals that were wild to the prairie. With the die off of the wild bison from over hunting and the introduction of livestock into the area by homesteaders, wolves soon adapted and began preying on the cattle and sheep living in areas like northwestern South Dakota. It's difficult to imagine today, but wolves were once considered such a threat to ranchers that extensive government control programs and wolfers worked to drive this animal to local extinction on the prairie and in much of the West.

According to Bruce Hampton's book, The Great American Wolf, published in 1997: “Three Toes, a wolf of northwest South Dakota who had previously lost a toe to a trap, allegedly killed twenty cattle during a single night and sixty-six sheep during a subsequent two-night rampage. By the time it was finally trapped in 1925, ranchers claimed it had destroyed hundreds of livestock worth $50,000, the greatest economic loss ever attributed to a single wolf.”

Fifty thousand dollars was a considerable sum of money back in those days, and will still buy a decent amount of pasturage in the Thunder Butte area. According to Peter Coates, whose essay appears in The Massacre in History, published in 1999: “...the most notorious [wolf], Three Toes, apparently gave 150 men the slip for thirteen years.”

Recently, I came across a story in the Arco Advertiser about Old Three Toes, which I've excerpted here:

“The most noted outlaw wolf in northwestern South Dakota was Old Three Toes. By 1912, his big three-toed track was plain in dusty sheep corrals where dead lambs were strewn about uneaten. He became known as a killer who seemed to kill for the sport of it. One night he killed many sheep and lambs at three different ranches, but ate only the liver of one lamb. He was killing livestock, including saddle horses and steers at a cost of $1,000 a month when caught by a government hunter in 1925. His mate had been killed in 1920, and after that he hunted alone.

“Archer B. Gilfillan, a sheep herder and noted author of the Tri-State area, tells of the many attempts to trap, shoot or run down Old Three Toes. One man ran him 95 miles during three days in fresh snow, changing horses five times. Sons of Cave Hills ranchers followed him on a 20-mile circle. He then struck out for the Short Pine Hills 40 miles away. They changed horses once and by the end of the second day followed disgustedly as the track circled back to within a mile of their own ranch. When chased by wolf hounds Old Three Toes tricked them with leaps across high embankments, backtracking and once, a thirty-foot jump into water.”

Another source on the web recounts how the end came for Old Three Toes -- "He was over 20 years old when he was finally trapped July 23, 1925, in the Kahoun pasture, near Gallup, SD, by Clyde F. Briggs, deputy predatory animal inspector for South Dak­ota. The animal was still alive when discovered in the trap, and an effort was made to take him to Buffalo, the county seat, before killing him, but he died before reaching that town. He was 6 feet long and weighed between 75 and 80 pounds." The photo below shows Briggs pictured with the dead wolf.


Clyde Briggs at the Capture of Old Three Toes

Whether Old Three Toes' renown is actually deserved or not, the reintroduction of Canadian gray wolves into Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming has caused great controversy, as wolves are an intelligent predator and still seen by many ranchers as a potential threat to their way of life. Wouldn't be wonderful, though, to find some way to co-exist with these remarkable creatures?

--Mike Crowley

March 12, 2008

Tuffy the Wonder Dog



An interesting story in the lore of Thunder Butte country is the tale of the ranch dog who went to Hollywood. In 1930, a local cowboy named Ger Orvedahl began training a six week old puppy in the finer arts of helping out around the ranch. Tuffy was a quick learner and over time developed an extensive repertoire of really interesting tricks that he could perform when Ger employed various hand signals and voice commands. Ultimately, Tuffy learned to recognize by name and fetch many household and ranch implements. Later, Ger got the idea of showcasing Tuffy's talents by putting on a show in Faith, about 1932, where Tuffy would fetch various objects and lead a horse down the street. Local residents were so amazed at Tuffy's talents that Ger decided to take Tuffy to Hollywood in 1935.

While the early months were difficult ones, Ger ultimately got the attention of actor Tully Marshall, who became acquainted with Tuffy while filling up his car at a gas station near where the Orvedahls were staying. Marshall passed the word about this talented dog along to a film production manager, and Tuffy's film career was born. Tuffy had roles in numerous films, mostly Westerns, including:

Nevada (1936)
Drift Fence (1936).
The Trail of the Lonesome Pine (1936)
Hawk of the Wilderness (1938)
Daredevils of the Red Circle (1939).
The Mighty Treve (1937)
Rolling Caravans (1938)
Stagecoach Days (1938)
Pioneer Trail (1938)
Phantom Gold (1938)


Tuffy's film costars included numerous famous actors of his day such as Henry Fonda, Fred MacMurray, Buster Crabbe, and Jack Luden. Tuffy left Hollywood in 1941 after an illness on the set of the film, Brigham Young (1941), but continued giving shows and making appearances until 1946, when he died at 16 years of age.

Ger Orvedahl continued to train and perform with dogs until his death in 1954 in Illinois. Ger published his dog training wisdom in the book, The Orvedahl Method of Training a Puppy, in 1950. The Orvedahl family maintains a website devoted to the story of Ger Orvedahl and his Hollywood wonder dog, Tuffy, here. Ger is pictured with one of Tuffy's successors, Tuffet, below.


Ger Orvedahl and Tuffet Perform

--Mike Crowley

February 16, 2008

More on James Shockley and Family

[James Shockley, my Uncle] Jim, married Wyona Hunt. They lived, in my earliest memory, on a little dirt farm near Coal Springs. Coal Springs is between Meadow and Glad Valley. I stayed with them when I was about eight years old for a month or so. They only had the one child then, Dora Lee. I think she was about four years old.

Jim and family often visited us, but he and my Mom had a slight falling out. I think it was because Jim’s wife had a little baby boy that died, probably within the first year. The local priest wouldn’t bury the baby in the Catholic cemetery because they had never had him baptized, so they would never go back to church. Wynona’s parents [belonged to a different denomination,] so I suppose [this also helped] them to slide away from Catholicism. Anyway, my mother [was never especially close to] Wynona’s mother. [So, the kids and I] never became close.

When I was in about the third grade, my folks sent me over to stay with the Jim’s family. At that time they lived somewhere around where the Veits live now, east of Thunder Butte by about six or seven miles. Well, I spent the first night sleeping with a bunch of the kids in the attic of their house (because it was warm up there). Willis (Bill) was a baby and squawked all the time. Wyona hung his diapers in the attic to dry. Because of the crying baby and the diapers, I got on my horse the next morning and never went back. In fact, they later moved to the log house that was our school house, and the school moved into a new board sided house.

I didn’t see any more of them that I recall until Jim stepped on a clock gear that went through the hole in his shoe and stuck in his foot. Jim never knew that he had diabetes, so his feet were numb and he never knew about the clock gear until he got gangrene in his foot, blood poison set in, and he died. I would have been nine or 10 years old when he died [and he would probably have been close to 40 years old. This would have been about 1930 or 1931].

Wyona moved to Lemmon after Jim’s death and worked at whatever she could find to do. One man had a small motel at the time and he paid her to clean the rooms. She managed to raise all those kids and did a good job of it. I visited Wyona and the kids when I was in high school, probably two or three times. You know how it is—I was a big boy and [thought I was] sophisticated, and couldn’t be bothered with a woman and her kids. I have always regretted not seeing them or helping them more.

Dora Lee has always been my favorite cousin. She met her husband in high school and he is now dead. She took care of him up to the end. [I believe she] still lives on the farm South of Lemmon. [Jim’s and Wyona’s other kids are Joseph who lives in Idaho, Aldene who is deceased, Jennie Lee who is married and splits her time between Nebraska and Arizona, and Willis (Bill) who also winters in Arizona and spends summers in Lemmon.]

--John Crowley

Note—bracketed material inserted by the editor.

February 04, 2008

1893 Shockley Family Photo




Here is a photo of my grandmother's family that probably was taken in 1893 in Boscobel, Wisconsin. This was long before her parents moved to Lake Williams, North Dakota, and about 19 years before she took up homesteading with her husband and family just northwest of Thunder Butte in South Dakota.

On the left is my great-grandmother Catherine (Kane), who would have been about 33 at the time, with baby James Shockley on her lap at about one year of age. My grandmother's half sister Mabel stands in the center. Although we are unsure of her age, she was probably between eight and ten at the time. My great-grandfather, James Riley Shockley is seated on the right and would have been about 35 at the time this photo was taken. My grandmother, Mary, is seated on his lap and would have been four years old at the time.

Baby brother James, pictured in the photo, and brother Joseph, who is not pictured because he would not be born yet for another couple of years, also took up homesteading not very distant from where my grandmother settled with her family in South Dakota.

--Mike Crowley